The Pea Coat: A History Rooted in the Navy
The pea coat originated on the decks of ships. From the 18th century, sailors wore this short coat in heavy wool, recognisable by its double row of buttons and wide collar. Its short cut let them work on board without getting tangled in the rigging. The French word “caban” is thought to come from the Arabic “qaba”, a coat worn by horsemen.
Adopted by navies around the world — French, British, American — the pea coat became a key piece of the civilian wardrobe in the 20th century. It embodies a sober, masculine elegance that never goes out of style.
The Evolution of the Pea Coat in Menswear
In the 1950s, the pea coat left the docks for the city. Worn by demobilised GIs and then by American students, it became a symbol of elegant counterculture. In France, it was popularised by cinema and style icons — Jean-Paul Belmondo and Alain Delon wore it with disarming ease.
Today, the pea coat has conquered runways and wardrobes. Fashion houses reinterpret it every season: adjusted lengths, noble materials, new colours. But the fundamentals remain: a straight, double-breasted wool coat that crosses time effortlessly.
How to Choose the Right Pea Coat
The Ideal Length
A classic pea coat falls to the hips. This short cut frees the legs and suits every body type. If you are taller than 1.85 m, a model that falls slightly below the hips will balance your silhouette. Avoid overly long models that betray the spirit of the pea coat.
The Fabric
Virgin wool is the traditional choice: warm, breathable, hard-wearing. A good pea coat contains at least 80% wool, ideally complemented by polyamide for structure. In 2026, you will also find pea coats in recycled wool or in a wool-cashmere blend for extra softness.
The Colour
Navy blue is the historic colour of the pea coat. It remains the most versatile: it pairs as well with jeans as with suit trousers. Black is more urban, more rock. Charcoal grey brings a contemporary nuance, while camel makes a notable entrance this season.
3 Looks to Wear the Pea Coat
The Casual Look
Navy pea coat, cream turtleneck sweater, raw denim jeans, leather derby shoes. A simple outfit that relies on the quality of each piece. The pea coat's raised collar shields you from the wind and adds a touch of allure.
The Office Look
Black pea coat, white shirt, grey flannel trousers, Oxford shoes. The pea coat makes an excellent replacement for the overcoat, for a more assertive style without losing elegance.
The Evening Look
Midnight blue pea coat, black turtleneck, tailored trousers, leather ankle boots. A sober, sophisticated look for dinners in town.
Discover Our Pea Coat Collection
The Coulange 1918 pea coat collection pays tribute to this maritime heritage with pieces made in France. Carefully selected wool, buttons, viscose lining: every detail counts.
Also explore our selection of men's coats for other exceptional pieces.