Used since the beginning of the 20th century by military navies, watch jackets were specially designed for soldiers serving on the decks of ships. The term "watch" refers to the period during which a sailor is on watch, often in the middle of the night, exposed to bad weather and the bitter cold of the open seas. The watch can last four to six hours depending on naval traditions.
The main mission of these jackets was to protect against wind, humidity and cold. They were made from sturdy, saltwater-resistant materials, often woolen cloth or waxed cotton, with high collars, deep pockets and reinforced zippers to ensure maximum insulation. Their design, dictated by functionality, has gradually established itself as a model of efficiency.
From the 1930s, watch jackets were standardized in the uniforms of national navies. In France, they integrate the package of embarked personnel, particularly in surface and submarine forces. Toutefois, contrairement à l’uniforme personnel, ces vestes étaient souvent prêtées par l’armée et affectées à un navire ou à un poste donné, puis redistribuées selon les affectations. They could not be kept by sailors once their mission was completed.
To facilitate their identification and distribution, different acronyms were affixed to these clothes. The inscription "MN" (Marine Nationale) was intended for surface forces, while other markings designated specific units such as submariners, commandos or technical services. These markings allowed rigorous logistical management and rapid identification in the holds and changing rooms of ships.
From 1950 to 1990, Coulange participated in this industrial effort by manufacturing watch jackets and watch overalls for the French army, designed to withstand extreme maritime conditions. Manufactured in the family workshop located in Mayenne, these pieces meet the strict standards of durability and protection required by the military specifications of the time. Coulange, founded in 1918, was then a regular supplier to the Ministry of Defense for maritime textile equipment. This work of memory is also recounted in our article on the different deck jackets of the French Navy and in our page dedicated to deck jackets.
Historically, the watch jacket is a military garment for engagement: it embodies rigor, resilience and a sense of duty. Its evolution over the decades illustrates the permanent adaptation to extreme conditions, with varied versions depending on the national navies but always faithful to the original spirit: serving in the harshest conditions.
A remarkable illustration of this heritage is given by the film The Drum Crab (1977), directed by Pierre Schoendoerffer. We see the officers and sailors of the National Navy operating on the high seas, dressed in authentic watch jackets and overalls, similar to those produced by Coulange at the time. The film, recognized for its military realism, depicts this equipment in its original context, reinforcing its place in the French collective imagination.
Beyond its military use, the watch jacket has influenced numerous aesthetic and technical trends in professional and civilian clothing, becoming a discreet symbol of robustness and efficiency. To go further on this heritage, see our analysis in item Coulange Heritage Parka.