Used by military navies from the early twentieth century, watch jackets were designed specifically for sailors on duty on the decks of ships. The term "watch" refers to the period during which a sailor stands lookout, often in the middle of the night, exposed to the elements and to the biting cold of the open sea. A watch can last from four to six hours, depending on naval tradition.
The main purpose of these jackets was to protect against wind, damp and cold. They were made from sturdy materials resistant to salt water, often wool cloth or waxed cotton, with high collars, deep pockets and reinforced fastenings to ensure maximum insulation. Their design, dictated by function, gradually established itself as a model of efficiency.
From the 1930s, watch jackets became standard issue in national navies. In France, they joined the kit of personnel serving aboard ships, particularly in the surface and submarine forces. Unlike the personal uniform, however, these jackets were often lent by the armed forces and assigned to a given ship or post, then redistributed according to postings. Sailors could not keep them once their mission was over.
To make them easier to identify and allocate, various insignia were applied to these garments. The marking "MN" (Marine Nationale) was intended for the surface forces, while other markings designated specific units such as submariners, commandos or technical services. These markings allowed rigorous logistical management and quick identification in the holds and lockers of ships.
From 1950 to 1990, Maison Coulange took part in this industrial effort by making watch jackets and watch overalls for the French armed forces, designed to withstand extreme maritime conditions. Made in the family workshop, these pieces met the strict standards of durability and protection required by the military specifications of the time. Coulange, founded in 1918, was then a regular supplier of sea-going textile equipment to the French Ministry of Defence. This work of remembrance is also traced in our article on the different deck jackets of the French Navy and on our page dedicated to the deck jacket.
Historically, the watch jacket is a military garment of commitment: it embodies rigour, resilience and a sense of duty. Its evolution over the decades illustrates a constant adaptation to extreme conditions, with versions varying from one navy to another yet always faithful to the original spirit: to serve in the harshest conditions.
A remarkable illustration of this heritage is the film Le Crabe-Tambour (1977), directed by Pierre Schoendoerffer. It shows officers and sailors of the French Navy on the high seas, wearing authentic watch jackets and overalls similar to those Coulange produced at the time. Renowned for its military realism, the film shows this equipment in its original context, strengthening its place in the French collective imagination.
Beyond its military use, the watch jacket has influenced many aesthetic and technical currents in workwear and civilian clothing, becoming a discreet symbol of robustness and efficiency. To explore this heritage further, see our analysis in the Coulange Heritage Parka article.