Used from the early 20th century by naval forces, quarter watches were specially designed for soldiers serving on ships' decks. The term "quarter" refers to the period during which a sailor is on watch, often in the middle of the night, exposed to harsh weather and the biting cold of the open seas. A quarter can last from four to six hours depending on naval traditions.
These jackets were primarily designed to protect against wind, moisture, and cold. They were crafted from robust, saltwater-resistant materials, often heavy wool cloth or waxed cotton, featuring high collars, deep pockets, and reinforced closures to ensure maximum insulation. Their design, dictated by functionality, gradually established itself as a model of efficiency.
By the 1930s, quarter jackets had been standardised in the uniforms of national navies. In France, they became part of the kit for embarked personnel, particularly in surface and submarine forces. However, unlike personal uniforms, these jackets were often lent by the army and assigned to a specific ship or post, then redistributed according to assignments. They could not be kept by sailors once their mission was over.
To facilitate identification and distribution, various markings were applied to these garments. The inscription "MN" (Marine Nationale) was intended for surface forces, while other markings identified specific units such as submariners, commandos, or technical services. These markings allowed for rigorous logistical management and rapid identification in ships' storage holds and cloakrooms.
From 1950 to 1990, the house of Coulange contributed to this industrial effort by manufacturing quarter jackets and quarter overalls for the French army, designed to withstand extreme maritime conditions. Made in the family workshop in Mayenne, these pieces met the strict durability and protection standards required by military specifications of the time. Coulange, founded in 1918, was a regular supplier to the Ministry of Defence for naval textile equipment. This memory work is also traced in our article on the different deck jackets of the French Navy and on our dedicated deck jacket page.
Historically, the quarter jacket is a military garment of commitment: it embodies rigour, resilience, and a sense of duty. Its evolution over the decades illustrates the constant adaptation to extreme conditions, with variations across national navies but always faithful to the original spirit: to serve in the harshest environments.
A remarkable illustration of this heritage is provided by the film Le Crabe-Tambour (1977), directed by Pierre Schoendoerffer. The film shows officers and sailors of the French Navy operating on the high seas, dressed in authentic quarter jackets and overalls, similar to those produced by Coulange at the time. The film, renowned for its military realism, portrays this equipment in its original context, reinforcing its place in the French collective imagination.
Beyond its military use, the quarter jacket has influenced numerous aesthetic and technical trends in professional and civilian clothing, becoming a discreet symbol of robustness and efficiency. To explore this heritage further, see our analysis in the Parka Heritage Coulange article.