The peacoat: a history rooted in the navy
The pea coat has its origins on the decks of ships. From the 18th century, sailors wore this short coat in thick wool, recognizable by its double row of buttons and its wide collar. Its short cut allows you to maneuver around the boat without getting tangled in the ropes. The word “caban” comes from the Arabic “qaba”, a coat worn by horsemen.
Adopted by military navies around the world – French, British, American – in the 20th century the pea coat became a centerpiece of the civilian wardrobe. It embodies a sober, virile elegance that never goes out of style.
The evolution of the peacoat in men's fashion
In the 1950s, the pea coat left the docks for the city. Worn by demobilized GIs then by American students, it became a symbol of elegant counterculture. In France, it is popularized by cinema and style icons - Jean-Paul Belmondo and Alain Delon wear it with a disarming naturalness.
Today, the pea coat has conquered the catwalks and wardrobes. Fashion houses reinterpret it every season: fitted length, noble materials, new colors. But the fundamentals remain: a straight, double-breasted wool coat that stands the test of time effortlessly.
How to choose the right peacoat?
The ideal length
A classic pea coat goes down to the hips. This short cut frees the legs and adapts to all body shapes. If you are over 1m85 tall, a model that falls slightly below the hips will balance your silhouette. Avoid models that are too long which distort the pea coat style.
The material
Virgin wool is the traditional choice: warm, breathable, durable. A good peacoat contains at least 80% wool, ideally supplemented by polyamide for hold. In 2026, we will also find peacoats made from recycled wool or a wool-cashmere blend for more softness.
Color
Navy blue is the historic color of the peacoat. It remains the most versatile: it goes with jeans as well as suit pants. Black is more urban, more rock. Anthracite gray brings a contemporary nuance, while camel makes a notable debut this season.
3 looks to wear the pea coat
The casual look
Navy pea coat, cream turtleneck sweater, raw jeans, leather derbies. A simple outfit that focuses on the quality of the pieces. The raised peacoat collar protects from the wind and adds a touch of style.
The office look
Black peacoat, white shirt, gray flannel pants, brogue. The pea coat advantageously replaces the suit coat for a more assertive style, without losing elegance.
The evening look
Midnight blue peacoat, black turtleneck, dress pants, leather ankle boots. A sober and sophisticated look for dinners in town.
Discover our collection of pea coats
The Coulange 1918 peacoat collection pays homage to this maritime heritage with pieces made in France. Rigorously selected wool, real horn buttons, viscose lining: every detail counts.
Also explore our selection of men's coats for other exceptional pieces.